A
BRIEF HISTORY OF THE HAIKU STAIRS
1942 - Construction begins
on Haiku Radio Station
In 1942, as the second
world war raged in the Pacific, the U. S. Navy needed means to communicate with
elements of the fleet active in far-flung theaters of operation. They began the
construction of a top-secret high-powered radio facility in a natural
amphitheater in the Koolau Mountains on the island of Oahu. A series of wooden
ladders was constructed from the radio station site almost to the top of Puu
Keahi a Kahoe.
After more than a year of
frenetic construction and heroic effort, the radio station was commissioned in
1943, and served as the primary long-range communication system for the U.S.
Navy's Pacific Command.
Architect Daniel C. Caires
designed an all-metal stairway that was installed in place of the wooden ladder.
In 1954 the Navy allowed
the U.S. Air Force to use the CCL structure at the top of the Stairs as an
unattended microwave relay station until that too was abandoned in 1963. It is
still topped by the microwave antenna and was used for the microwave equipment.
1958
- Haiku Station inactivated; OMEGA
operation begins
The Radio Station at Haiku
Valley was inactivated in 1958 and began to function as an experimental OMEGA
radio-navigation station, operated by civilian personnel.
A new antenna was stretched
across the valley in 1971, and Coast Guard personnel moved into the station in
1972, On February 17, 1975, the station was commissioned as an official Coast
Guard unit. Local hikers who knew about the Stairs were allowed to climb after
signing a waiver at the Omega station.
Millions of people learned
about the Stairs on April 9, 1981, when an episode of "Magnum P.I." ("J.
'Digger' Doyle," guest-starring Hawaii-born Erin Gray) was aired.
Five months later, on September 13, the "3,922
Steps to the Top" story appeared in the "Today" section of
the Star-Bulletin & Advertiser. The "Magnum P.I." episode was
re-telecast on October 9, the same year. These events sparked enormous interest
in the previously little-known hike.
On October 18, the Honolulu
Star-Bulletin published an article "It's Getting Crowded at the Top." The
article reported that Coast Guard Station had been flooded with requests to
climbÑas many as 200 people a day on weekends. The Coast Guard quickly limited
to 75 the number of climbers allowed on the Stairs at one time. Gradually the
use of the Stairs returned to a more-manageable ~20,000 climbers per year, according
to Coast Guard records.
Upon the assignment of
Admiral Kozlowski as new Coast Guard Commandant to Hawaii, the Stairs were
closed for repair in May, 1987. Then, in June, after an act of major vandalism
in which three sections, in two different, steep, locations, were de-coupled
and allowed to fall down the mountainside, the Stairs were closed permanently.
On September 10, 1987, a
meeting was held at Hawaii Loa College and was attended by dozens of
enthusiastic hikers and other community members, and state and local
politicians. The name "Friends of Haiku Stairs" was chosen, and a concerted
effort to re-open the Stairs was begun.
1987-1988
- Friends of Haiku Stairs Work
to Save Haiku Stairs
A meeting of Adm.
Kozlowski, DLNR director Bill Paty, and FHS principals was arranged by
Representative Terrance Tom and held in his office. Adm. Kozlowski was adamant
that the Stairs would not be re-opened, indicated that the Omega station had a
limited future, and that the intention of the Coast Guard was to dismantle the
structure before abandoning the station. This suggestion was met with vigorous
opposition from the FHS members present. Various options were discussed whereby
the State might gain access to the property. Adm. Kozlowski agreed that
destruction of the Stairs would be delayed, and surprised the FHS members by
wishing them "success in your efforts."
During
the next few months members of FHS held further petition-signings, requested
and received support from Hawaii's congressional delegates, local government
officials, local scientists, and other local organizations. Information was
obtained regarding the requirements for achieving status as a National
Historical Site. Eileen Root, Hawaiian Reference Librarian, displayed an
impressive collection of historical photographs of the radio station in the
Kaneohe Library.
1987
May - Work
on H-3 Re-commences
When
construction on the H-3 recommenced, the trailhead leading to the Stairs was
engulfed by the construction operation, and all FHS activities went into
indefinite recess. The Renewed construction on H-3 resulted in closure of the
area around the Stairs. Although the Director of Transportation had promised
that "provisions can be made to permit hikers to cross the access road provided
they receive permission to enter the area from the United States Coast
Guard" (Hirata, 1988), no such permission was ever granted by the Coast
Guard.
Construction
completed, H-3 was opened in December, 1997. Soon drivers on the new highway
began to see people climbing on the neglected stairway. A single guard
stationed at the entrance to the former USCG facility was insufficient to
patrol the entire fenced border of the property, and soon large openings
appeared in the fence. Ignoring
the no-trespassing signs, hikers, pig-hunters, and other trespassers created
their own means of access.
1997
September - Last
OMEGA Transmission, Station Decommissioned
The
last transmission by the Haiku Omega Station took place in September, 1997. The
Omega station was decommissioned immediately thereafter.
The
Environmental Assessment (EA) for base closure considered alternatives either
for tearing out and removing Haiku Stairs, or for turning them over to the City
and County of Honolulu in their existing condition (Dept. of Transportation,
U.S. Coast Guard, June 1997). This
same EA validated the Stairs eligibility for Historic Register status, as part
of an Historic Landmark in Haiku Valley.
In
1997 the pending closure of the Omega Station again threatened destruction of
the structure. The Coast Guard produced a "study" (USCG 1997) that included a section
entitled "U. S. Coast Guard's Estimated Cost To Repair Verses [sic] Dismantling
The Stairs." The Friends of Haiku Stairs was revitalized with participation
from the Conservation Council of Hawaii, Hawaii Trail and Mountain Club, the
Sierra Club, the Koolau Foundation, and interested community members.
When
the Haiku Valley site was declared surplus by the military it became necessary
to decide who would inherit the land. During spring and early summer of 1998
discussion continued between City and Coast Guard officials.
A
Coast Guard official indicated that the Coast Guard would repair the Stairs and
turn them over to the City. Coast Guard attorneys soon quashed the idea,
insisting that the original contract required their removal. A series of
negotiations ensued. It was determined that a major part of funding for repair
would be available to the city from the federal Intermodal Surface
Transportation Efficiency Act (ISTEA). Eventually the Coast Guard agreed to
relinquish the Stairs, and the City agreed to accept them, in "as is"
condition.
Members
of a revitalized FHS renewed their campaign of public information and
solicitation of cooperation. Numerous letters and inquiries were sent to
government leaders, information was supplied to news media, members of FHS
appeared on news programs and wrote op-ed items for publication. It quickly
became clear that after fifteen years the community was still active and
willing to step forward in preserving the Stairs for public use.
The
administration of Mayor Harris, with support and encouragement from City
Councilman Steve Holmes, submitted a notice of intent to request the excess
federal lands of Haiku Valley for a park and preserve on the valley floor, and
for preservation of Haiku Stairs. Access to the Stairs is across the valley,
over the previous federal land, but the route up the valley wall is largely on
Board of Water Supply land.
However, the Department of Hawaiian Homelands (DHHL), which had priority
in the excess federal lands hierarchy, also expressed interest in the valley.
On
July 9, 1999, the U.S. General Services Administration turned over 147 acres of
the former U.S. Coast Guard Omega Station to the State Department of Hawaiian
Home Lands.
This
transfer effectively blocked access to the stairs through the former
Animal Quarantine Station, and
included two parcels along the ridge tops on which the Stairs are located. Several other parcels of land along the
upper Stairs were owned by the State Department of Land and Natural Resources
as a result of a federal quit-claim deed. In a cooperative spirit, the State
passed ownership of these lands to the City in October 1999. Meanwhile, the
City undertook (and is still undertaking) efforts to gain access to the
remaining 147 acres of Haiku Valley inherited by DHHL.
In
midsummer 2001 the city accepted a low bid of $875,000 (80% to be paid by
federal funds) for repair of the Haiku Stairs.
At
the same time $100,00 was appropriated to hire a consultant firm to draw up a
master plan for a 600-acre Haiku Valley cultural, historical and recreational
preserve. To elicit public feedback, the master plan was presented in several
public and private venues in the Haiku area during the fall of 2001. Attendance
was sparse.
Since
DHHL land was off limits, a substitute access point was sought. Every likely
access point was considered, and the only practical choice was to negotiate
an arrangement for parking at Kaneohe Hope Chapel, and make use of the adjacent
H-3 Service Road for an easy one mile walk to the stairs trailhead along the
H-3 construction access road. An access gate was constructed from the Hope
Chapel parking lot to the old H-3 access road, one mile from the Haiku Stairs
trailhead.
Well
before repair was completed, meetings had begun among the mayor's staff and
other involved entities, including members of the FHS board, for planning the
re-opening of Haiku Stairs. A very tentative date was set for late September
but was later moved to October. Detailed plans were developed for a grand
opening.
Circuit Judge Dexter Del Rosario ruled that the state was legally
at fault for the injuries and deaths that occurred in the Mother's Day 1999
rockslide. The proposed opening was put on hold until "court-compliant"
signage could be designed and installed
2002 Fall
- Hikers Re-discover Haiku
Hike
Meanwhile, word of the renovated Stairs spread, and hikers began
exploiting various methods of access, either through holes cut in the fence,
or by climbing over the fence. Some reportedly trespassed on private property
in the Castle Hills and Hokulele subdivisions. The transmitter building,
especially, suffered grievous vandalism. Residents of those neighborhoods
became increasingly annoyed when some hikers parked automobiles in inconvenient
places, when large groups created noise and traffic blockage while walking
through the area, and when some hikers even knocked on doors to ask residents
for directions to the Stairs.
A consulting company was
chosen to design the required signs. Design was completed and temporary signs
were erected, preparatory to the new planned opening on August 14, 2003.
After nearly a year of the
supposed contract, the parent denomination of Hope Chapel voided the parking
agreement. The city immediately entered into negotiations with the parent
denomination. Opening was delayed until August 18.
Negotiations are
unsuccessful, and opening is again put on hold.
Responding to complaints
from certain members of his constituency, Representative Ito asks DHHL to
refuse access until the complaints are aired in a public forum. At a community
meeting held on August 20, advocates of Haiku Stairs were well represented
in discussions with complaining residents and state officials. It was broadly
agreed (with a few dissenters) that the best remedy for trespassers was to
expedite a legal access way for Haiku Stairs, and that the City should do
more to discourage trespassers in the community.
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Headline History
May 16, 1997 Star-Bulletin: "The city wants Haiku
Stairs saved and the hiking spot reopened"
January 6, 1998 Advertiser: "Repair of Haiku stairs stalled"
May 29, 1998 Star-Bulletin View Point: "'Stairway
to Heaven' faces purgatory of neglect"
June 25, 1998
Star-Bulletin: "Council OKs Haiku
Stairs as park, but transfer delayed"
June
23, 2000 Star-Bulletin: "Funding
set aside for 'stairway to heaven' repairs could be completed next year"
July 21, 2000 Star-Bulletin: "Volunteers clear the way for repair of
Haiku Stairs"
July
5, 2001 Advertiser: "Hikers ignore
warnings on Stairway to Heaven"
July
27, 2001 Star-Bulletin: "Fixing a
Stairway to Heaven"
January
20, 2002 Star-Bulletin Kokua Line: "Haiku
stairs repair work to be completed this year"
July
8, 2002 Star-Bulletin: "Sneaking
up the stairs"
July
18, 2002 Star-Bulletin: "Haiku
Stairs to reopen in August"
July
18, 2002 Advertiser: "Get ready to
climb Stairway to Heaven"
July
25-31, 2002 Island Weekly: "Haiku
stairs closer to re-opening"
September
1, 2002 Advertiser: "New Haiku
trail plan in works"
September
7, 2002 Star-Bulletin Newswatch: "Access
issues delay Haiku Stairs opening"
September
25, 2002 Star-Bulletin: "'Stairway
to Heaven' to open in October"
October
10, 2002 Advertiser: "Reopening of
Haiku Stairs delayed by lawsuit worries"
May 20, 2003 Star-Bulletin
Kokua Line: Haiku stairway remains closed to the
public
Saturday, June 28, 2003 Star-Bulletin: "Police return to Haiku Stairs"
Thursday,
August 14, 2003 Advertiser:
"Gatekeepers deny 'Stairway to Heaven'"